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Beauty Industry Reports Article, January 8, 2008

L’Avant Garde takes hair color to a new level

Beauty Industry Report (BIR) was introduced to Dr. Hayel Said, founder and CEO of L’Avant Garde, Inc., just prior to last year’s Cosmoprof North America by John Hammer, a good friend and someone who has had a wonderful career in the salon industry. When John told me about Hayel’s unique hair coloring technology, I was intrigued and went to visit him at his company headquarters in nearby Simi Valley, CA. After finding out it was his technology licensed to Wella that was the basis for Wella’s Magma line, I wanted to find out more. Since our initial meeting, Hayel has started to roll out his line across the country, so it was time to find out more about his unique line and his growth plans.

eauty Industry Report (BIR): What are the primary messages that you want to convey to BIR's readers throughout this interview? What is the story you want to share?

Dr. Hayel Said (HS): L’Avant Garde has introduced the Lights & Shades System, with its multi-patented technologies, to establish the first complete new hair color category of single-step 7-level highlighting with the entire color spectrum. The Lights & Shades System is the first integrated system built from the ground up and designed to address all three stages of hair color: preparing the hair for color, coloring it and caring for the color after, both at the salon and at home.

BIR: Tell me what your company’s tagline, “Technology Embracing Nature,” signifies. 

HS: “Technology Embracing Nature” describes our philosophy presented in our mission statement, which states, “The ultimate in high quality and creativity is achieved only when one taps into the remarkable dominion of science and the universal wisdom of nature.” As a result, all our products embody this timeless synergy by integrating our patented technologies with the most effective botanical extracts.

BIR: How does Lights & Shades save major time for colorists?

HS: Prior to this technology, achieving dramatic color changes on dark or medium brown hair involved a lengthy two-step process of lightening hair first and coloring it second, which takes at least two hours. Single-step lightening and coloring with current products on the market is limited to a few shades of red. Now, with Lights & Shades, hair colorists can design any shade they can imagine and complete the application in less than half the time it took them to do the traditional two-step approach. As a result, they will save time and, consequently, increase their color business. Clients also will be able to manage their time better, since they no longer have to spend hours to go through the traditional double process.

BIR: What are the other benefits?

HS: There are several additional benefits with Lights & Shades. First, the condition of the hair will be superior, because the contact of hair with reactive chemicals is limited to an average of 20 minutes. Second, hair colorists will have a tool to be more creative, because they can now design shades never before seen on hair by mixing pure primary colors. Third, it delivers predictable results. The color seen on the chart is the color that will be achieved by the application. Fourth, novice colorists will find it very easy to use. If they can highlight, they will be able to color, because there is no more guessing or intimidation. Fifth, experienced colorists will love the unlimited potential that the system provides, because the entire color palette is now at their disposal.

BIR: You mentioned earlier that this Lights & Shades system addresses three stages of color both at the professional and at the home levels. What does that mean?

HS: A good hair color application, as most hair colorists know, depends on the hair being free of metallic contamination and buildup. Metallic contaminants are the worst enemy for all reactive services, such as coloring, perming, highlighting or relaxing the hair. The first stage, therefore, is to make the hair ready for the reactive service. Lights & Shades provides a patented, uniquely effective professional product known as the Get Pure Pre-Color Clarifying Treatment, which is the second generation of our highly successful Clean Canvas Hair Primer & Purifier. This product provides the only effective removal of metallic ions and other types of buildup that interfere with color. In the second stage, the professional Chroma-7 One-Step Lightening & Coloring Powder, with patented SynchroTone technology, can lift hair color by up to seven levels and simultaneously deposit any of hundreds of shades in a single step and in as little as 10 minutes. In the third stage, caring for color, the professional After-Lock Color Sealing & Conditioning Treatment is formulated to address all needs of colored hair. It is fortified with wheat and silk proteins for hair strength, free-radical scavengers to neutralize the effects of oxidizers, proven botanical extracts to seal the cuticles and restore moisture, specialized conditioners to detangle and add shine and anti-UV molecules to block harmful UV effects on color.

BIR: Tell me about your key home maintenance products.

HS: Because a hair color application does not end when the client leaves the salon, the Lights & Shades System is the first to extend the unique professional three-stage approach of hair color to home. Clients will now be able to keep their hair free of harmful buildup, refresh the color vibrancy at will and protect the color longer with a home maintenance regimen prescribed exclusively by the salon professional. The once-a-week Stay Pure Clarifying Shampoo and the daily High Radiance Shampoo for color-treated hair constitute stage one. The home maintenance companion of Chroma-7 is Re-Vibe Color Refresher, which contains no alkalinity, ammonia or peroxide, is formulated to perfectly match the Chroma-7 shades and it can be used as frequently as desired to keep color as fresh and vibrant as day one. Silken Treat is the home version of After-Lock and carries many of its benefits.

BIR: Can any brand of developer be used with Lights & Shades?

HS: Lights & Shades uses its special developers, which are formulated to work with this unique system. Because Lights & Shades uses proprietary dyes, some of which have been synthesized specifically for L’Avant Garde, other developers can negatively interfere with Chroma-7 shades.

BIR: Tell me about your background. How did you get to where you are today?

HS: I received an offer from Redken Laboratories as I was finishing my PhD in molecular biology at the University of Southern California. This was my first exposure to the industry. I worked at Redken for 10 productive years. At that time, Redken represented the pinnacle in hair science research, and I was able, with the help of an excellent team, to publish several scientific articles and patents, and develop some very successful products. I moved next to Matrix before I decided to start my own company in California.

BIR: How did you start L’Avant Garde?

HS: I started L’Avant Garde in 1995. I am ambitious and always felt that I would have more flexibility and freedom in working on issues of interest to our industry if the reporting chain was a few links shorter. I started L’Avant Garde in my garage. For six years, that was my office, lab, warehouse and sometimes my bedroom. I had a lot of help and support from my wife, also a scientist and a teacher, who worked long nights at the bench with me and paid a lot of bills during the first lean six years.

BIR: What is your vision for L’Avant Garde?

HS: I foresee L’Avant Garde as a major player in the hair care industry in the near future. All our formulations and products are developed by our scientists, and several carry the stamps of the United States and European patent offices. This, I believe, gives our brand a sustainable competitive edge. I am a firm believer in research, because research is what always drives innovation and creativity. I still spend time on the bench with my scientists and we have many concepts that we hope to translate into useful tools for the professionals.

BIR: Who are the key members of your management team?

HS: L’Avant Garde is fortunate to have a management team that has been together for a long time. John Power is our vice president of finance, a trusted former Redken co-worker, who is keeping us in the black. Steven O’Donnell is our vice president of operations. He is a scientist and a dynamic package of energy, also a former Redken associate. Our director of customer service is the ever-smiling, always efficient Mary Power. In advisory roles, we count on the wisdom of John Hammer, former president of Redken and senior executive at Revlon, the talent of Keith Taylor-Sharp, the knowledge of Barry Thomas and the expertise of Anthony Kalloch.

BIR: What type of educational/product knowledge and training programs do you provide and who is in charge of this important aspect of your business?

HS: In addition to our bilingual (English/ Spanish) literature package, which includes a product knowledge brochure, technical guide and color chart, instructional DVD, Power Point presentation for sales consultants, product inserts and instruction sheets and a well-designed website, we are actively involved directly with hairdressers through educational seminars that we conduct in association with our distributors. Ian Gavet, a world renowned master hair colorist and hair cutter is our Artistic Director who oversees all educational programs, classes and shows. I am also involved in many educational activities, counting on my experience as an educator for the American Board of Certified Hair Colorists and Color America with Beth Minardi.

BIR: I understand you have started a national distributor roll-out and have just opened Salon Services and Supplies.

HS: Yes. Our plan is to proceed slowly but surely. We have started with Salon Services and Supplies in the Northwest and we are thrilled to work with such a respected and well-run organization. Sydney Berry and George Learned got a glimpse of Lights & Shades at Cosmoprof, and they loved it. We also partnered with Color Mid-Atlantic on the East Coast which is run by two of the most wonderful people, Aaron Frankel and Bruce Galotto. With the help of the two organizations, we have been conducting educational classes in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, New Jersey, Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina.  

BIR: Describe your ideal distributor.

HS: I would definitely classify Salon Services and Color Mid-Atlantic each as an ideal distributor. They have one-to-one relationships with their customers. They pay attention to details and their sales consultants are a breed apart. Their advertisement campaigns are structured to benefit the manufacturer, distributor and the salon. As newcomers to the industry, both organizations have been of great help to us. Our next ideal distributor is one who desires to grow.

BIR: Do you have plans to market Lights & Shades internationally?

HS: Our immediate goal is to establish ourselves domestically, but our line has strong appeal worldwide, especially in Mexico, South America, Africa and Asia.

BIR: What bearing do current trends in the salon industry have on L’Avant Garde?

HS: It is hard to comprehend the impact of the industry’s current trends of consolidations and acquisitions on small companies. Some people in the distribution segment have been hurt and others stand to benefit. The two giants in our industry are reshaping the entire industry to their needs. Smaller companies are feeling the squeeze on the distribution level, but others find new opportunities opening up.  L’Avant Garde stands to benefit because it has created a unique niche market and there are still enough aggressive independent distributors to take us where we need to go.  

BIR: Have you had any mentors in the pro beauty biz, and if so who are they?

HS: Two inspirational icons are Paula Kent Meehan and Farouk Shami. Paula always portrayed her success story by hanging on the wall leading to her Redken office the oar she and Jheri Redding first used in mixing product in a ceramic tub. Farouk Shami, founder of Farouk Systems, gets the credit for the concept of single-step lightening and coloring. Of course, at that time, the technology was not available to allow Sun Glitz to achieve what it claimed. But Farouk’s determination and creativity kept the company alive. The concept, however, was so intriguing and so attractive that I have spent the last 12 years perfecting it.

BIR: What is the best business advice you ever received, and who was it from?

HS: At a time when I was debating whether to start a business or stay within the security of my job, I sat down at a dinner table and chatted with Kasey Kasem, a friend I have known for many years. He sensed the hesitation in my voice and said: “If you firmly believe in your ideas, my God you have nothing to fear.” Then he continued with his famous phrase, “But remember, shoot for the stars but keep your feet on the ground.” I am doing both. Thanks, Kasey.

Reach Dr. Hayel Said at 805-522-0045 or hms@lavantgarde.com and visit www.lavantgarde.com

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